![]() 07/17/2014 at 12:14 • Filed to: Story time | ![]() | ![]() |
I went to O'Reilly to drop some oil off and swap out the 5w30 for 10w30 (since my pressures were a little low for our high temps right now) and when I asked if I could swap out the oil I got a steely stare from the man in the green shirt and then, in a loud authoritative voice
"YOU DON'T WANT 10w30!" Long uncomfortable pause.....
"wh"
"You Don't want to use 10w30, its a worse grade of oil, if you want a thicker you got to 20w50 but you don't want to use that, its too thick. But 5w30 is a better grade of oil than 10w30"
"Im not sure I follow your logic"
"ITS A BETTER GRADE OF OIL"
"Okay, well I think im going to go with 10w30 because that's actually whats recommended for my engine in hot climates, besides my drain intervals are only 4000 miles anyway so that's like, what, late sept. before I change if I don't like it."
"4000 is too long. You can't go 4000."
"im not overly concerned with i..."
"no, 3000 is what you should be doing I've blah blah blah fleet blah blah blah 3000..."
And it went on and on like this for 30 minutes until he finally just said
"Look If you want to run it I'm not going to tell you you can't" Um, what was the last 30 minutes of my life then?
So I did, its in there now, and my oil pressure is where I want it. Great story eh, here is the cleanest, nicest Type I I've ever seen in my life, in the parking lot outside said o'reilly for sticking around.
![]() 07/17/2014 at 12:18 |
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We do 3000 around my place, but that's mostly because we run 200k mile+ diesels with dino oil. In general, though "better grade of oil" = wut.
Ironically, a 3000k interval wouldn't be that terrible an idea for a Type 1 either.
![]() 07/17/2014 at 12:18 |
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Very odd, that. Did he used to work for Comcast?
I run a synthetic 15W-50 in my MG...makes nice oil pressure. When I switched from dino oil to synth I could literally hear the motor turn over faster on the starter when cold. Yes it leaks...it's British :)
![]() 07/17/2014 at 12:23 |
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The truth is, when I drain the oil on my cruiser at 4 or even 5k it has VISIBLE life left (not totally opaque) and the people who sent their stuff into blackstone at 5k and beyond with these engines bare that out in the lab results. I use a conventional oil too but honestly, 4000 is a fine interval, even for high mile motors like mine. Im not sure what he was refering to with "grade of oil" I kept trying to probe into that question and got no where. My dad was an engineer at Chevron and my uncle is an engineer at Toyota. If there are two things I should know a little about its oil and Toyota engines, but good luck explaining it to this guy.
![]() 07/17/2014 at 12:28 |
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considering your experience imagine how many hours the vw guy spent in there being told about his car.
![]() 07/17/2014 at 12:29 |
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Anything we change tends to look OMG CANCER levels of black from soot content. Which, while not directly killing to an engine is not the greatest idea for oil flow/pressure, thus actual oiling.
![]() 07/17/2014 at 12:33 |
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True, and of course diesel oil gets the business more than a low compression gas engine's oil would.
![]() 07/17/2014 at 12:34 |
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I wondered that as well. The added bonus was Ken Corolla (guy i just made up who knows jack squat about cars) starts chiming in about how he only changes his oil at 3000 or even 2500...
GUH! come on, I need to go home and change my oil!
![]() 07/17/2014 at 12:45 |
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I know the pain. I had this great routine I always had to run through.
me: I would like a new rotor for my 61 bug
car expert: front or rear
me: what?
expert: front or rear rotor?
me: uh no not brake rotor besides it uses drums I need an distributor rotor
expert: oh ok what year is it?
me: thats not gonna help its a 61 but the engine is later
expert: okay 61 bug nope dont have it
me: yeah its not a 61 motor its a later one a 1600 so lets say the car is a 68
expert: ok yeah well lets see nope dont have it in stock but we could special order it from germany
me: no thanks
as I am walking out
expert: we have a sale on antifreeze buy one get one 1/2 off
usuually something like this or worse. or spend 1/2 hour someone telling me they had one exactly like mine except yellow and it was a super beetle and they tell me if I have fuel injection I shoukd take it off.
![]() 07/17/2014 at 12:46 |
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LOL
1. They're not different "grades". That would connote that they are of different quality. Viscosity does not equal quality.
2. At normal summer operating temperatures, 5W 30 and 10W 30 are the same viscosity, 30. 20w50 is indeed more viscous (thicker). The first number is only relevant in cold w inter temps.
![]() 07/17/2014 at 12:50 |
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My main issue is idle pressure, not max pressure, I wanted something little ticker for startup and low temp operation. Seems to be helping. As for point 1. Thats the thing I couldn't quite square. I had NO idea what he was talking about.
![]() 07/17/2014 at 13:31 |
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I had to stop going to the local AutoZone/O'Reilly/Schuck (whatever the hell the corporate goons are calling it this week) for anything other than oil drop off about 10 years ago. It was just never worth the couple of dollars you might save. You'd lose at least that value in time, the inferior quality of the products, and the increased frequency of parts failure.
They could never just give you the part you asked for if it was any kind of modification. "I want rear brake pads for a '90-'94 240 SX", "But that's a 280Z", "I know that. I converted to rear discs." "But they have drum brakes. You need brake shoes." "No, what I need is a decent local parts shop. Have a nice day."
The local NAPA outfit has been great, however. I was able to bring in the MAP sensor from my SDS EFI/turbo conversion on my Toyota truck, and the counter guy chased down the reference in their books and even checking some forums to get me the right one Turns out it's a 2 bar (or was it 3?) from a Chevy Duramax. Hmmmm, looks like they might be doing oil recycling now, too. Interesting.